GhostOfACPast
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Any one here play the guitar?
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Have a question about a guitar I own.
Seems all strings tune up and when I press 12th fret they are intune but when I press any other fret (I haven't tried 13+) the notes are 20cents off. Is this normal?
Say fret 3 6th string should be G well it is but G 20 cents sharp and they are all like that and being I am new to all of this myself I don't know if that is normal.
Any help is appreciated.
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Mike_the_Red_MT
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Any one here play the guitar?
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Not normal, it's a sign that the neck or truss rod (thing inside the neck which keeps the neck from warping) has been bent, warped, etc.
It can happen to a guitar even when it's seemingly being taken care of.
A guitar should always be put back into it's case after use. The case should also have silicate gel inside to ensure that the moisture is absorbed. Also leaving a guitar in a room which is drafty or that changes temperatures often is TERRIBLE for the guitar. Even if the temperature doesn't change radically, if you leave it there for a looooong time (i.e. several seasons) the natural change in temperature will warp it too.
You can get it fixed pretty easily, but it's gonna cost you.
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GhostOfACPast
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Mike_the_Red_MT posted:
Not normal, it's a sign that the neck or truss rod (thing inside the neck which keeps the neck from warping) has been bent, warped, etc.
It can happen to a guitar even when it's seemingly being taken care of.
A guitar should always be put back into it's case after use. The case should also have silicate gel inside to ensure that the moisture is absorbed. Also leaving a guitar in a room which is drafty or that changes temperatures often is TERRIBLE for the guitar. Even if the temperature doesn't change radically, if you leave it there for a looooong time (i.e. several seasons) the natural change in temperature will warp it too.
You can get it fixed pretty easily, but it's gonna cost you.
Ahh well no biggy as it has had 2 hours maybe 3 of being out of the case in 2 years and I always put it back in the case though.
Frankly with as much trouble as I have had with this Fender I think playing the guitar is simply not worth it. When I was a kid I had an acoustic that would not stay in tune and I chunk that thing as far as I could and this guitar is not too far from me doing that to it as well.
Thanks for the info though.
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Nevver
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The first question I have is which model Fender do you have? If it is a Telecaster with three saddles on the bridge (vintage style), the B string will always sound slightly out of tune due to the limitations of having just three saddles to adjust - there is a compromise between the B and high E. Country players favor this setup as they like the "twang" that they get. I have a 52 reissue Telecaster with that setup and it's just the way they are; it's also my favorite guitar.
If it is a six saddle bridge (like modern style Telecasters and most all other Fender guitars have), you might want to check the intonation. Setting intonation If your guitar is equipped with a floating tremolo like what most Strats come equipped with, this is something you need to pay particular attention to. Floating trems are kind of hassle when it comes to tuning and setting intonation so a bit of patience is required. Floyd Rose Original Tremolo - Intonating Your Bridge (you can probably ignore the parts about locking nuts unless you have some sort of "super Strat" with a Floyd Rose style trem). You might also take it to a pro (which is a good idea for any new guitar purchase anyway) and have them do a full setup for you to save yourself the aggravation unless you're experienced with doing setups. Here is an excellent book by Dan Erlewine.
You might simply be pressing down too hard on the strings when fretting. You want to press down enough to fret the note but, if you press down too hard, this causes the string to bend down over the fret causing the note to stretch and go sharp. Fender guitars, depending on which model you have, often have high, thin frets (typical of the vintage reissues; my Tele and 57 reissue Stratocaster both have these) where it seems to be more "tempting" to press down harder. My Les Paul Custom has relatively wider, shorter frets and I tend to not press down as hard on that guitar. Whatever type of frets are on your guitar, try playing more lightly; it's difficult a difficult habit to break at first which I had developed over years but I was able to condition myself to not fret so heavily. Playing lightly will also help you to develop more speed in your fretting hand.
Pressing down harder can help when bending strings and, in that situation, you're bending the string up, going through out-of-tune to in-tune when you reach the correct pitch. You just develop a feel for how high to bend the string after a while. Using vibrato (using your hands as opposed to an arm, but the principle is the same) when bending the string causes a wavering in-tune, out-of-tune, in-tune, etc effect.
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GhostOfACPast
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She is intonated as that was the first thing I ever learned to do but this guitar just refuses to stay in tune with the low E being the worst one.
It is a Squier (with dual humbuckers as I love humbuckers) Stratocaster so I know it is not an 800+ dollar guitar but sheesh the issues I am having with it.
As far as pushing the strings in yes I know about that and the reason you can do the individual note vibrato if you wanted but something is just not right about this thing.
If I go to 5 springs in the floating bridge vs the 3 it has now (was 2 when I bought it) will that help it stay in tune better?
I already had one shop set it up for free (where I bought it) so it might just be me expecting a string to be exact E and exact F exact G and stay that way for at least a few minutes. I really don't know but this is enough to stop before I begin and admit defeat.
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Nevver
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It sounds more like you're having an issue with either the way you're picking and the tremolo or the strings causing the guitar to go out of tune. The Squiers don't have the best hardware, but they should still stay in tune. Here are some tips:
Stringing your guitar
After restringing your guitar, you should stretch the strings some to help them settle in. If the last time the guitar was strung was by a technician, that person may or may not have stretched the strings or might have done just a quick job of it so you might want to try this first. At the 12th fret, pull up on each string individually by grasping it with your fingers and pulling it away from the fret board. After you stretch one string, tune it back up to pitch before continuing to the next. I always start with the high strings as they are easier to break and you might be a little too rough with them if you start with the low strings which are more difficult to stretch.
Assuming that the tuners on your guitar have a hole through the side where you slip the string through (vintage style Fender tuners are a little different), I like to use an x pattern for securing the strings on the peg head. Also, you want to use loop the string around the peg head only two or three times; any more than that is not needed and can cause the string to have the opposite effect and slip and stretch.
Tremolo bridges
Tremolos bridges are basically pivoting fulcrums. With a floating setup (where you can pull up on the bar to raise the pitch as well as push down to lower it; typical setup), the center point is balanced between the tension of the strings and the springs in the back of the guitar. When you push down on the bar or the string tension is decreased and the spring tension increased, this causes the bridge to pivot forward toward the strings. The important note is about string tension: if you pick particularly heavy (as I tend to do), you can cause the string to pull the tremolo bridge forward making the strings go flat for a moment or two until the string goes back towards normal tension. There are several solutions:
- Play more lightly.
- Increase the tension on the springs by adding more of them. This will make the tremolo stiffer and more difficult to use but will provide more resistance to accomodate heavy picking. Adding more springs will cause the bridge to go back toward the body; if you want the bridge to be floating as well as it get it back closer to where it's properly intonated, you'll need to loosen the screws that fasten the spring claw to the body of the guitar. You'll most likely also need to adjust your intonation afterwards using the screws on the string saddles.
- Set your tremolo to be non-floating where you can press only down to lower the pitch. This is what I decided to do as I don't use tremolos that much to begin with and, personally, I find floating tremolos to be a pain because of the way I pick and just for ease of tuning. Besides, I bend up using my fretting fingers. YMMV depending on your style. You tighten the spring claw screws to bring the bridge back so that it's against the top of the guitar; you'll need to find a spot where your picking and strumming isn't causing the bridge to dip forward yet the bar isn't too stiff for your taste. You'll definitely need retune all of the strings and adjust intonation afterwards. A side benefit of this method is that you'll get a little more sustain out of your guitar as there is more mass from the bridge making contact with the body; it's not a huge difference, but it is noticable.
Those last two suggestions are a bit time consuming and can be frustrating to deal with and might best be accomplished by a technician unless you're willing to do a little trial-by-fire and still take a chance on having to take the guitar in to a technician if it becomes a nightmare. Setting up guitars isn't rocket science (they're actually pretty simple contraptions) but, personally, there are some adjustments I'm willing to make and some I'd just rather pay someone else to deal with (necks on vintage style Fender guitars immediately comes to mind). It's good to learn how to maintain your instruments but, if it starts taking away from the time you have to play and your enjoyment or just becomes totally frustrating, then it's time to talk to a tech. That Dan Erlewine book is excellent but, even with good instructions, there are some things I just won't touch; you'll need to decide for yourself what you're willing to take on.
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GhostOfACPast
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Well, I am on my way to the tech now (different store than where I bought it) and see what they say but after spending 10 or so hours with this guitar tweaking I think I strum hard (I always have on string instruments) and I can see the bridge go forward a little. The bridge is the type where you push down on the tremolo bar to force the bridge to come up (it is not a double floating type bridge). 2 springs was a nightmare and the tech was shocked to see 2 so he moved them out of the v shape and put an extra on to form |.|.| which helped but I wonder if that is enough springs for how I play, etc...?
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I don't know who could play with just two springs; that's very little resistance. I have my guitar set up with three springs and I still tightened the claw screws a little more to provide even a little more resistance. It took a little while and some fine tuning to find a point that worked out well as a compromise. Even after all that, I still took it to a tech afterwards as the neck didn't have enough bow in it when I was done and I don't do vintage style Fender necks without a truss rod adjustment nut at the head stock. I'm happy with it now and hopefully it will be a while before I have to have that guitar serviced again.
Tremolos (floating in particular) are, IMO, the biggest pain to deal with on an guitar out of all the other possible adjustment one can make and I would take it to a tech too at this point before you make yourself crazy with the thing.
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GhostOfACPast
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It is in the techs hands now. Said he should be done with it after lunch (why I went in so early). He said he is just doing a standard setup and the cost is 35 plus strings but he said my strings were fine so no strings are needed (shouldn't be they have almost no use on them).
I hope the action and all is fine as I like a little higher on the strings but no biggy if not. He did pick it up and said the neck had a slight bow in it (was talking to another employee) and wth he can tell this by picking up the guitar and laying 3 fingers on it. Amazed.
One thing they all said is the 6 saddle set up is a real <bleep> and I concur. PITA for sure.
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Nevver
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That's about the going rate for a setup and, IMO, money well spent.
I don't know how he can tell the neck has a "slight" bow in it just by picking it up and laying his fingers on it unless he was refering to a twist which is another story. There are ways to "sight" a neck although I've heard conflicting opinions on whether it's best to sight from the bridge or headstock. Either way, it's normal for a guitar to have a slight upwards bow in the neck as it's needed so the strings don't fret out when they vibrate (strings vibrate in a long arc and, therefore, a slight bow is needed in the mid point of the neck which is the widest point of the string arc).
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GhostOfACPast
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Yeah, I hate that ringing even if the pickups are not hearing it so a higher action is better to my ears among other things.
He picked it up acted like he was about to play it and said it had a slight bow. Nothing that can't be fixed.
Oh, I did ask them about the 10-20cents towards sharp (I did manage to get them flat to 4 or 5 cents sharp though) and I was asked if that was by ear. I said no it was by tuner and they all, almost in unison, said that was bad. They all said you need to go by what you hear more than the tuner due to pressing of the strings etc... (like you said but I already knew anyways). What I did tell them is when the F and G (1/3 fret 6th string) sound odd the tuner will say they are odd and the E string has gone and gotten out of tune again. Happens on the A a little as well but that low E is causing me fits.
Hopefully the tech can get it all working and around 2 my time (he is only there until 3 (10-3 M-F) I will pick it up in better than new condition.
See where I originally had the tech set it up was in a VERY loud and busy place and in 15 mins he had it done but this guy will take his time.
Oh, I asked about the springs and he said I don't need 5 since the bridge was flat on the body and he could go back to 2 if I wanted so it would float a little backwards as well and I said no. He said having it the way it is now allows it to stay in tune a little better and I know that for 100%. When it had only 2 and I switched up to hybrid strings you could not intonate low E. The saddle was as far in as you could go and the bridge was screwed down as far as the 2 screws would allow (inside the body) so no way. Way too much headache there so the guy said he would leave the 3 on it then.
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Nevver
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I don't actually use a tuner (Well, very rarely - I received one as a gift several years ago after never owning one in the past. I don't know if that was a generous present or a hint...). I just never bothered buying a tuner when I first started playing (I couldn't afford one) so I had to make due without and got along fine ever since. What I learned after doing it on my own without a tuner is what those people in the guitar shop were talking about - it's not such a good idea to tune an open string (not fretted) in relation to a fretted string as it is very difficult to get the two to be perfect. using open strings is much more reliable.
There are two ways that I tune open strings, actually one or the other or a combination depending on the guitar and how much noise is around me.
My preference is to tune in fourths: For example, I pick the open low E string immediately followed (but not at the same time like a double stop) with the A string. I listen to how the strings vibrate - if there is wavering, one of them is out of tune. Since I tune low to high, I adjust the A string in that situation until the wavering stops (it will slow down the closer you get to having the two strings in tune with each other). Working up to the A and D then the D and G leaves you stopped at the B string which is not tuned to a fourth above the G. For this, I then go and play the 5th fret harmonic of the low E string and tune the high E string to that and then I go and tune the B string a fourth down from the high E string. Lastly, fret the fourth fret of the G string to compare it to the B and I may have to go and readjust from there (usually, I'm off on the G from the D or the high E from the low E); that G and B comparison is how I can tell if I got the whole thing right or not.
Using harmonic are another way to tune if you don't like working in fourths but still want to tune using open strings. Start by playing a harmonic on the low E string at the fifth fret and play the 7th fret harmonic on the A string; the notes should be the same and, again, the wavering will slow down and eventually stop the closer the two strings are to being in tune with each other. The rest of it goes like the tuning to fourths where you continue to the G string then work out the high E to the low E using the harmonic and so forth.
Tuners are great though (when I remember to put a battery in mine). They do make tuning much quicker and easier and I find the easiest way is to, once again, tune using open strings without fretting. One of these days, I'll need to buy a bypass box that switches in my tuner so I don't have to unplug the guitar from the rest of the mess just to tune up with it.
Different guitars can be more or less difficult to tune as well. I find Fenders to be more difficult than Gibsons due to the how close the tuners are together (I sometimes bump adjacent tuners) and the gear ratio. My Telecaster with it's imperfect intonation is the most challenging; I could have the 6 saddle modern bridge that came with it as an option installed, but I like the old style bridge that came on it from the factory and it's a part of it's charm; besides, it never bothered Keith Richards.
I would definitely stick with the three springs; two is too light and five would probably be entirely too stiff.
A good, professional setup can make a world of a difference on a guitar. I *try* to take mine in once a year to have it done right and don't often mess with them myself in between. Sometimes I don't even realize that they needed the work done until I get them back and it's like "Wow!"
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GhostOfACPast
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Well, being a computer tech guy at heart (hey imma guy and I do love gadgets so what can I say, heheh) I use the tuner as my God but being told I am worshiping a false God does make me a bit edgy. 
My old friend who is now completely blind did it like you are talking about when tuning but as I have read you are just making sure you are intune with yourself not with the outside world. They say to use the tuner if you do a gig so I bet you would tune one string and have it in tune then do the rest based on that one string. Seems that would be the best combo.
Here is the guitar I have and in 2 or 3 years of playing I will surely upgrade.
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Damn! I had this long post with links and everything but wasn't logged in! 
Yes, I tune by ear when I just want to get the guitar itself in tune. When I was playing with other musicians and didn't have a tuner, I would get a note from one of them (preferably a low E or A) then tune from there then check the note with them again after I was done.
I do believe that a tuner is the best and most efficient way to tune and I don't use mine very often out of pure laziness and simply not needing to be perfectly in tune with anything else. An exception to this is if I am learning a song from a CD where perhaps the band wasn't tuned perfectly with a tuner or they are tuned down a half or whole step or whatever so I tune as best as I can to the CD. An alternate method would be to use software, but I prefer to listen to music over my stereo for learning songs. Though, with a tuner, the same principle applies as if tuning by ear - tune using open strings. Guitar tuners are set up to do that and, while I'm no expert on tuners, ever one I've seen that is specifically for guitar has readings for EADGBE.
That Squier should be good for you for a while; while it's not a higher end Fender guitar, they don't put out junk and those guitars are certainly good for the money. Later on when you decide you want something else, you'll be faced with a disease and want everything under the sun. And then, of course, there are amps and pedals...
I've finally settled most of my guitar appetite over the past couple of years now that can and currently own a Gibson Les Paul Custom, Gibson SG Junior (like the old style ones, not the nasty looking ones they're selling now), a Fender 52 resissue Telecaster, a Fender 57 reissue Stratocaster (sunburst finish) and a Reverend Slingshot. I also have some of my older guitars which I can't seem to part with even though I rarely take them out of their cases.
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GhostOfACPast
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Nevver posted:
Damn! I had this long post with links and everything but wasn't logged in!
Well that sucks.
I have a V-Amp2 (much love for this thing OMG it freaking rocks) and a 25W Fender Amp (25R as I don't care much for the newer ones with digital everything). When I know more and can play better I might get a tube amp as I just love the sound.
As far as Guitars go I dunno as I am in a quandary. See I love humbuckers but Fender is not known for Humbuckers (why I was shocked and bought this squire strat) Les Paul is. So, I might actually be heading to Les Paul/Gibson land when I know more.
As I was writing this reply I received the phone call from the tech. OMG he did a tremendous amount of work.
He had to file the nut down (I had a feeling about this part). He had to shim the neck (UGH). He had to titghten the winding posts (WTH?) and he reset intonation.
Off to go check this baby out now as he said it plays 100% perfect now and he spent almost an hour on it so it should. He said the action is perfect now and he said the nut is why the sharp was happening because (factory mind you like the shim in the arm) the strings were so high up at the nut that I was having to bend them just to get them to the fret so there is why I was 20 cent off.
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I've never checked out any of the modeling devices but they're supposed to be pretty impressive.
Fender amps are great. I agree, when it comes to amplifiers, simpler is usually better and the 25R is certainly a straight forward amp. I also agree that tubes are IT when it comes to getting great guitar tone (depending on what you like, of course). I own two Fender amps - a fairly new Blues Junior and an old 1966 Champ I bought on Ebay. I also have a Mesa Stiletto which is a ridiculous amplifier for my purposes; it's much louder than I need since I just play as a hobby but... ridiculously loud can be good too.
Fender and Gibson aren't the only good guitars out there. There are some manufacturers and builders who make guitars with a humbucker in the bridge and single coils for the middle and neck (traditional 80's hair band setup). While not quite the same thing as an actual single coil pickup, you can get a guitar with pickups set up for coil tapping where one coil of the humbucker is deactivated to give you a similar sound of a single coil pickup. There is also the difference between a Telecaster and Stratocaster, each with their own kind of single coils and this Strat and that Strat and the other 5,000 variations of the Stratocaster and THEN there are also P90 style pickups (which I love too). Of course, you can also just go crazy over the course of a couple of years and buy one of these guitars, one of those guitars, one of... etc.
I think what you should do is stick with what you've got and, in the mean time, pay attention to recordings of guitar players whose sounds you like and investigate what they play. After a while, you can make a good informed decision as to what other kinds of guitars you might want. Keep in mind that your tastes may change over time too. I played guitars with humbuckers ONLY for years until one day I decided that I wanted a Stratocaster (the beginning of the flaming credit card) and now I love single coils. I still love humbuckers and my Les Paul is an extremely nice guitar (if a bit too heavy) but now I can choose the guitar I feel like playing and hearing and I think I have enough of a selection to keep me quite happy for a while (until I want a Gretch or a Rickenbacker or a Jackson or a PRS or a Tom Anderson or a Hamer or a BC Rich or...).
It sounds like the tech did a throrough examination of your guitar and I'll bet it's a huge improvement over where it was when you took it to the store. I have yet to buy any kind of new guitar that didn't need some degree of adjustment when I first got it. An improperly cut nut is on the outside of things that usually need to be done, but it's not unheard of even if it just needs some slight filing because the strings are catching in it (possible related problem you might have been having with tuning) and his explanation about the slot not being deep enough certainly makes sense.
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Ral_Partha
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Wanna try modeling? Buy some clay.
I work in a guitar shop, as a tech/salesperson... I have yet to hear a modeling amp that I like.
If its not all tube, I dont wanna waste my time with it.
pffft.. maybe its cause I'm an old fart... I dunno.
Ive been playing for 25+ years, gigging for 20.. tubes rule. (well.. for an old fart like myself)
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GhostOfACPast
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Well, I tried it and man oh man it is a world of a difference. I could visually see the difference as soon as I held it in the shop.
He said he loved the sound coming from my guitar and was amazed at how well it sounded and played. He said to not be discouraged because the stuff he did to my guitar he has had to to on 1500 dollar ones and imo that is just sick.
He said I might have to return in the winter when it starts to get very dry here but I will know when the time has come when it starts to ring.
When I went looking for a starter guitar I had several in mind but Fender I grew up with. Hell I grew up with Jimmi playing on the radio and the Who. Pink Floyd (David Gilmour is the one I wish I could play like) was king so I knew I wanted a Fender.
I did pick up a Les Paul but ugh too heavy and the cost made me say no for it to be a first or even a second guitar. Of course my wife fell in love with Martins but ahem, OUCH, holy hand grenade of expensive but her playing idol is Eric Clapton I think.
I really don't know what will be the next guitar but that should be in 3 years I think.
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GhostOfACPast
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Ral_Partha posted:
Wanna try modeling? Buy some clay.
I work in a guitar shop, as a tech/salesperson... I have yet to hear a modeling amp that I like.
If its not all tube, I dont wanna waste my time with it.
pffft.. maybe its cause I'm an old fart... I dunno.
Ive been playing for 25+ years, gigging for 20.. tubes rule. (well.. for an old fart like myself)
Yep, it is because you are an old fart.   BTW, how old are you? I am no whipper snapper myself. 
Seriously though it is akin to CDs versus vinal.
Anyways, if I were gigging I would do the pure analog route (meaning tubes etc...) but for sitting in my room and no need of this 25w amp getting me thrown out of my apartment it rocks and was the best 99 dollars I ever spent. I looked at the pods and pffft over priced to me.
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Nevver
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I'm not admitting to anything when it comes to my age but I've been playing for quite a while too and played in a few bands years ago.
My job might involve computers but I like my guitar stuff pretty low tech - tubes and analog effects. I wouldn't turn my nose up to some digital reverb or even delay (as long as I can roll off the high frequencies in the repeats) but there is something so much more tangible about analog effects pedals and tubes. Plus, with tube amplifiers and particularly those with tube rectifiers, you get that nice, thick compression when you turn them up that you just can't get with solid state. I'm pretty sure the rectifier tube in my Champ is why it sounds so much more rich than my Blues Junior as I replaced the stock speakers in both amps with Weber Vintage Series speakers and especially since the the Champ has a 10" speaker while the Blues Junior has a 12" speaker. Go figure. Though, I'll say that I would much prefer to carry a solid state amplifier than a tube one - heavy!
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GhostOfACPast
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Yep, tube amps (because of the transformer alone) is one heavy beast.
Anyways, where are tubes made nowadays? 15 years ago we were getting all of our 12ax7's etc... from Russia because no company in the US made them. Even Great Britain stopped making valves.
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Tubes are made primarily in Russia and China. The problem with making tubes is that it involves a lot of nasty stuff like mercury so US environmental laws won't allow for it in the US anymore; Russia and China don't have a problem with that. New Sensor (Sovtek, Electro-Harmonix) is probably the biggest producer and they are based in Russia.
Here is a good article on one supplier of new tubes: ToneQuest Report: Doug's Tubes
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GhostOfACPast
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Interesting.
I will say I still remember tubes from my old JC Penny TV and some tubes were being retrofitted with solid state back then. I even had articles on how you, as a radio amateur (ham operator), could make them. Looked like a tube, fit in the tube socket but it never became hot because it had transistors inside (used less energy too).
Anyways my old JC Penny used a 12AX7 and an old Halicrafters shortwave radio I had from circa 1940's used a 6L6 in it. I am, therefore, not nostalgic for tubes. I hated them to be honest as they were hot (peeled my skin enough times), expensive, the equipment that used them was extremely heavy, and I had to go to Radio Shack to use the handy tester on them as they blew out quite often. The only thing I like about tubes is the saturation and tone that they give but that is it.
edit: A side note and goes to show we shouldn't listen to emcees or announcers about such things:
Which award did David get from the Queen at Buckingham Palace in 2003? Does David have to be referred to as 'Sir Gilmour' now? (Andy)
— David was made Commander in The Most Excellent Order of the British Empire, or CBE for short, in November 2003 for services to music.
The Order is limited to 100 Knights and Dames Grand Cross, 845 Knights and Dames Commander, and 8960 Commanders.
'Sir' is reserved for Knights only so, no, he should not be addressed as 'Sir David'.
Guess people thought he was knighted but he really wasn't.
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The only experience I have with tubes is through guitar amplifiers. I've owned various amplifiers over the years and, to me, the best ones were always the tube ones. My hope is that, one day, digital modeling or some other technology will surpass tubes for sound quality AND feel and make them obsolete. Tubes just "give" and react with the guitar in a certain way that feels just right. But who wants to carry around something so heavy and fragile?
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GhostOfACPast
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Nevver posted:
...who wants to carry around something so heavy and fragile?
That's why we have roadies.
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Mike_the_Red_MT
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How in god's name do you have the patience to write all that stuff Nevver? lol
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the_great_intex
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I can help you finely tune an air guitar.
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Mike_the_Red_MT posted:
How in god's name do you have the patience to write all that stuff Nevver? lol
I have a big mouth.
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a-WHALE-of-a-tale
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i play air guitar
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SabuJSE
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I'm late to this party - will try and hit the major points:
1) The more springs the better, imo, on a standard strat trem. I have all 5 on mine and the bridge is flush against the body. I like lots of resistence but I also have zero tuning issues with that guitar and the intonation is as good as intonation gets.
2) Modeling amps/racks work best when they are amplified by something that does not color the sound at all, e.g., a keyboard amp or straight into a PC for recordings. They sound much better that way. For quick PC recording, I use a Line 6 Toneport UX2. My main rig is all tube and analog effects and I'm going to be getting a dummy load speaker box soon to record that seup into a firewire device into the PC.
3) I don't think there is a three, so hi everyone!
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