Author Topic: Computer Issue - it seems to be losing it's mind
Churi-ya 
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Subject: Computer Issue - it seems to be losing it's mind
Last night I'm blogging and listening to a CD (Pink Floyd Animals) - and I get the audio control panel to pop-up, telling me a cable has been disconnected. BAM, out goes my left rear and front speakers. So, dutifully, I check them, yup everything plugged in ok. I spend the next half hour checking all the setting, the driver, seeing if the devices are functioning normally. Nothing seems to work - and everything checks out that it IS working correctly.

I am about to give up when without notice, they turn back on. Everything's fine.

This morning I boot up, and nothing, no sound anywhere. Checked everything again, took speakers to another computer - they work FINE there - played with all the settings, everything. Nothing. Silence.

Now, not 5 minutes ago my computer "detects" my CD/DVD ROM Drive as a "New Device" and asks me if I want to install it.

WHA?????

What could cause it to start dropping out devices?

 

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Virindi-Inquisitor 
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Subject: Computer Issue - it seems to be losing it's mind
>> What could cause it to start dropping out devices?

The most obvious possible explanation is a hardware failure. Another possibility is a corrupt windows file.

 

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NK_Wizarium 
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Subject: Computer Issue - it seems to be losing it's mind
Check your Event Viewer for any strange things, especially bad disk blocks.

Run a scan of your HD using your manufacturer's utility. Run the thorough test, and it may take many hours to complete.

Power Supply fluctuations can cause devices to disappear. If possible, please use a known good power supply in place of the old one and see if the problem continues or disappears. If you have access to such a 'test' power supply, this is the easiest thing to test, and therefore confirm one way or another.

If your HD and Power Supply pass all tests, then you most likely have circuitry on your motherboard going south. When these circuits start going, they can be affected to a great degree by subtle changes in temperature. Just a few degrees hot may make certain things fail. When it cools down a few degrees, these things may again 'appear' to Windows. The most common heat-affected components are the capacitors that are clustered around any chips, especially the CPU, but also near N or S bridges. These subtle changes would not bother a new motherboard, but older motherboards DO start to weaken and become sensitive to temperature changes. I can't recommend trying to repair a motherboard, it's just simply time for a new one unless you know someone who has a lot of time on their hands and excellent electronics knowledge.

At face value, your OP seemed to maybe indicate a faulty sound card, but when you had the CDRom surprise, it now seems to point to one of the above.

 

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Churi-ya 
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Subject: Computer Issue - it seems to be losing it's mind
Thanks - I will try those. Also - another friend pointed out possible Malware. I ran everything I could get my hands on last night - none detected.

 

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NK_Wizarium 
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Subject: Computer Issue - it seems to be losing it's mind
If heat is causing these issues, or possibly bad connections, I'd do the following tear down and rebuild:

Supplies needed:
Soft or Med bristle brush to loosen dust
Can of compressed air
Standard and Phillips screwdrivers
Denatured or Rubbing alcohol
Dixie cups or similar system to keep track of screws and small parts
Artic silver CPU thermal compound (Optional, but highly recommended)

If you are not good at remembering how things came apart, use a digital camera to record disassembly.

Completely disconnect all external devices, monitor, printer, USB stuff, etc...
Move tower to a clear work area. Open side(s). Lay on side opposite all of the add-on cards.
Using appropriate screwdriver or release mechanisms, remove each card one at a time.
Use your brush to loosen all dirt everwhere on each card's circuit board, front and back.
Use compressed air to blow everything off of the card. Use rubbing alcohol on the metal 'teeth' of the card edge.
You can do this with sturdy Q-tips or just a paper towel slightly damp with alcohol.
(If you have access to denatured alcohol, this is best, since there is no water in it and it dries instantly)

DO NOT skip that step, as sometimes card edges can become corroded and by cleaning them, you might solve
a few problems. Do this process for each card.

Release all device cables from the motherboard. Take pictures and/or use masking tape on cables to ID them later.
Release all power plugs from the back of each drive. Most plugs are slotted a particular way and can't be re-installed wrong.
Label or take pics if in doubt...
Using appropriate screwdriver or release mechanisms, remove ALL drives from their respective bays.
There are typically 2 screws on each side rail. Remove all 4 and slide drive FORWARD, out the front end.
Hard drives usually slide BACKWARDS.
It might be necessary to remove the very front cowel. If so, this is usually fairly easy to see how it releases.
Leave cables connected to drives where possible.
If you have to remove any from the back of a drive, label or take pics.
Use brush and compressed air on each drive unit.
DUST BUILDS UP HEAT. It is no different than you wearing a thick ski jacket on a summer day!
On each drive that has a cable connected still, unplug that cable, and re-insert the cable, making a good, firm connection.
Brush all excess dust from cable length, wipe down with a slightly moistened paper towel or similar.
If you want to clean the drive faces now, while they're out, Simple Green works really good on most case finishes!
(Apply to cleaning cloth, do not SPRAY towards the drive)

Now we remove the power supply. Follow cables from power supply and unplug any that are still connected to motherboard or any other devices.
Of course, label or take pics.
Typically, on the rear of the case where the power cord plugs in AND where the power switch is, there are 4 or more screws which
hold the power supply in its slot and tight against the back of the case. Remove these screws and make sure to lightly support the
power supply when removing the last two. The power supply should easily come out of the case. This device will have a HUGE amount
of dust in it, and must be thoroughly cleaned/blown out. I always open up the supply to get direct access, but doing so will usually
break a seal and void that power supply's warranty (usually not a big deal). The supply usually has one cover that easily comes comes
off after removing 2 screws each side. Once you have it popped open, use the brush and compressed air LIBERALLY. Avoid contact with your
hands anywhere near very large capacitors, as they could still contain extremely high amounts of voltage in them. This is a SAFE process
if you just use the brush and don't stick your fingers inside the supply cavity. You CAN use the compressed air on the supply without
cracking it open, as there are usually vented slots all around it, but this isn't as thorough as opening it. Again, dust traps in heat
and acts like a thermal blanket. We are trying to reduce the temp on every component, which will in turn lower the overall temperature
of the entire system, so if you can handle it, get the supply opened and cleaned out. The supply has a large fan. Use Q-tips and alcohol
to clean each fan blade and the surrounding vortex area. A clean fan runs faster, more efficient, and therefore more cool air is passed
in and out of the supply cavity. Once the supply is thoroughly clean, reassemble it and set aside.

Using the appropriate release mechanisms, release and remove the memory sticks. Brush and blow the dust off, then use alcohol on the metal edge connectors.

Your board should now be clear of everything but the CPU. It is optional to do a thorough clean, but again, highly recommended.
Follow the fan connector and unplug from motherboard. Most OEM fans attach to the top of the heatsink via 4 screws. Remove those
and remove the fan from the top of the heatsink. Thoroughly brush out all dust, use the compressed air, then go at it with Q-tips and alcohol,
making sure the fan blades are as clean as possible. At this point, before you remove the heatsink, it is now time to thoroughly brush down
and blow out the entire motherboard. Be meticulous here, getting the bristles of the brush well down in and around all of the round
capacitors. I use a vacuum cleaner with a edge wand, and by using both hands, carefully brush and vacuum at the same time. Finish by
using compressed air liberally. If you are not going to redo the heatsink, then skip the next section and move right on to reassembly.

Heatsinks are usually clipped onto the top of the CPU, either using a spring tension clip or a lever.
Relese the heatsink and carefully remove by pulling up and/or tilting to one side until it releases. With spring tensioners, you will most likely
need to use a standard flat blade screwdriver. Mate the screwdriver tip with the release, press down, then away from the CPU, and then release pressure.
When doing this, it is CRITICAL that you be aware of your pressure, and also don't let the screwdriver tip accidentally slip from the release groove,
as you will punch a nice hole right in the motherboard! This same care must be taken when putting the heatsink back in! Most heatsinks can only be
installed one way, so once you lift it off, carefully examine how it was seated on top of the CPU. It is NOT necessary to actually remove the CPU
unless there is not enough room for you to clean the old thermal compound from it. Use paper towels, Q-tips, whatever necessary, wet with alcohol
to completely remove ALL traces of the old thermal compound from both the CPU top and the heatsink bottom. Again, be meticulous here, and use
fresh towels/Q-tips often. Re-apply the new thermal compound to the top of the CPU. Just a good sized dot of it is good to start. I use a single
edge razor blade to spread the compound across the CPU evenly. You only need a paper-thin coating! Too much compound = bad, but make sure the
entire surface is covered, or that's equally as bad. There are many tech sites that show this process in detail, so Google is your friend if you're
unsure! When you are ready to re-mount the heatsink, carefully eyeball it as you lower towards the CPU, then commit yourself. Get it latched down
without sliding it around very much, if possible. Once it is latched down, grab the entire heatsink with one hand. Gently twist a bit (and I do
mean GENTLY!) left and right, and lightly rock it back and forth. We are ensuring a good seal to the compound and a correct mate to the CPU top.

Reinstallation

Line up the fan aseembly for the heatsink and screw it back down. With ALL screws in a computer system, be careful with the amount of torque you
use. They do not need to be superman tight! Many screw holes are in plastic, so just firm/snug is adequate. Screws going into machined metal holes
can tolerate a bit more torque when tightening. Plug the fan back into the motherboard. Carefully line up the memory modules and press them into
place. Reinstall the power supply and secure with the screws. Reconnect power cables to the motherboard. Reinstall drives, connect their
respective power supply feeds and reconnect their ribbon cables per your labels and/or pictures. Make sure all connections are firm and snug.
Reinstall all of the add-on cards carefully, one at a time. Secure with one screw each, or use whatever mechanism your case provides. Eyeball where
the card edge mates with its respective slot and make sure the card is seated properly. Reconnect anything else necessary per your notes.

You should be ready to reinstall the tower sides and reconnect your video cable(s), printers, keyboard, mouse, etc...

As a part of general maintenance, I do this process once every 6 mos to a year. Definitely around 6 mos if you have pets, as their hair and dander
get sucked into your system and add more heat trapping layers than dust alone! Your system is going to run dramatically cooler now, and if temperature
spikes were causing flaky hardware malfunctions, this should help greatly. By disconnecting and reconnecting every single cable in the box, as well
as every card that goes into a slot, you alleviate the potential that one or more of them weren't making a good, solid connection.

Heat weakens ALL electronic devices, and reduces their lifespan. A weakened component or circuit therefore can become unstable and even more sensitive
to heat fluctuations. Keeping your tower cleaned out of dust and pet hair will always help, even if it doesn't fix the actual problem. It's just
good habit unless you have a lot of money to throw around = )

If any of these things are unfamiliar, again, pictures are all over the net on how to do it correctly. Best of luck!

- Keith

 

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